Recently I embarked on a project to build two turntables, 1 based on a stock Thorens TD-150 MK II and the other based around the TD-150 MK II sub chassis but with more of a resemblance to the Linn LP12. Those builds will be detailed soon. I wanted both turntables to be mounted in plinths built to LP12 specifications, but struggled to find specifications or dimensions anywhere. I tried a number of Linn specialists and even Linn themselves to no avail. With a great deal of research and a bit of trial and error I have managed to assemble a list of dimensions that do work to build a Linn plinth. They are published below in the hope that they will help future DIYers.
I will update this article if I should come across new information, but if any readers have attempted to do this or would care to measure their own LP12s and post the results in the comments below I would be interested to see your findings. Hopefully this can serve as a reference for DIY LP12 builders, and those looking to refurbish similar suspended decks such as the TD-150, TD-160 and others. Dimensions for some the parts of TD-150 are also given below.
Plinths seem to range in height from anywhere between 61 – 70 mm. Given that the standard spec Linn spring and chassis bolts are 60 mm in length, most plinths will require access holes in the baseboard; which isn’t a bad thing but is a point of note. Dimensions given below use an example height of 65 mm, but adjust yours to suit your requirements.
- Plinth External (Approx.): 445 mm x 349 mm x 65 mm (140 mm with lid)
- Plinth Internal: 401 mm x 305 mm x 65 mm
- Dust Cover (approx. as they seem to vary): 443 mm x 347 mm x 72 mm
- Baseboard: 418 mm x 322 mm
- Standard baseboard Thickness? Unknown, though standard baseboard rebate seems to be approximately 5 mm, though most aftermarket baseboards are at least 10 mm thick and there is no harm in adjusting the rebate to suit providing you drill holes in it for the spring bolts.
- Baseboard rebate: 8 mm wide on all sides x 5 (10?) mm deep
- Triangular Braces: 105 mm (straight sides), 10 mm deep rebate 8 mm wide, 30 mm from top of plinth. Results in a profusion of 95 mm which is plenty, more than enough to bolt things too though you may need to drill clearance holes for the switch and arm pillar etc. You can also use thicker braces with or without the rebate, in which case cut to 95 mm straight sides.
- Top Plate Mounting Blocks: Length 59 mm x Width 31 mm x Height 34 mm. I haven’t given a specification for the hole position as it’s best to lay the top plate on the plinth and use its mounting holes as a guide.
- Front And Back Battens: Length 285 mm x Width 6 mm x Height 27 mm
- Left Side Batten: Length 267 mm x Width 6 mm x Height 27 mm. Mounted to the back, to allow clearance on the left-side of the switch at the front.
- Top Plate: Depth 305 mm x width 290 mm
- Arm Board: 300 mm x 102 mm x 10 m
- Spring / chassis Bolts: M5 x 60 mm
- Power Switch: 27.3 mm x 22.4 mm
- Top Plate: Width 288 mm x Depth 305.5 mm. Front and left side battens must allow 50 mm clearance at front left corner to accommodate speed change mechanism. You will need to bevel the end of the front batten nearest the speed control as it will catch, but cutting the batten too short misses the mounting screw. Battens can be no more than 12 mm thick.
- Arm Board: 300 x 80 x 10 mm. 1 mm Rebate on left side, approx. 12 mm wide to accommodate vertical beam on sub chassis.
- Spring Bolt: M5 x 50 mm
- Sub Platter Diameter: 160 mm
- Outer Platter Diameter: 299 mm
- Bearing Inner Diameter: 10 mm
- Bearing Housing Outer Diameter: 17 mm
- Bearing Height (from bottom): 35 mm
- Sub Chassis Length: 355 mm
- Sub Chassis Depth: 237 mm
- Sub Chassis Central Circle Dia: 170 mm
- Motor Casing Diameter: 43mm
- Motor Screw Centres: 45 mm
- Motor screw: M3 x 10 mm